Saturday 27 May 2017

2017 05 - Carl, Adrian, Justin go to Slovenia

Saturday, June 10
The final leg: We got up at 7:00 so we could be at the airport early in anticipation of having challenges with Budget, the car rental company. I saw lots of comments online about other rental companies in Italy that always seem to be able to find issues that cost the customer another few hundred Euros so I figured I'd leave lots of time before the flight to argue with them. It turned out there was no need. The Budget guy did a once-around and then printed out our final receipt that showed the charge to be exactly what we were quoted at the rental time. Fortunately, the flight was on time for both departure and arrival in Toronto. Monica picked us up at the airport and the Slovenia adventure, short but thoroughly enjoyable, was behind us. Most importantly, I got two solid weeks of quality time with two of my adult sons, as I did with my eldest son 5 years ago.


P.S. This isn't a photo of our rental car, just a web-sourced one. It seems we all deleted our photos that may have contained a glimpse of our actual "Fičko"

Friday, June 9
Last day of the trip before we head home tomorrow. We had some of the pathetic breakfast at this B&B (some cereal, white sliced mange-kek bread, a few biscotti and some espresso from an automated machine. We drove to the tranchetto, parked and took the public transit boat down the canal to San Marco square. For Dad, walking through the narrow alleys was ho-hum because it's the fourth time but for the boys it was intriguing. Even so, there's only so much interest in what proves to be more and more of the same. Nice stroll, though. We walked back from San Marco and were back in our car by noon. It was a gorgeous day so off we went looking for a patio for some pizza and beer. Not easy to find. It seems there aren't many patios and those that we found were closed during lunch (nuts). Finally, Adrian spots one that's open and we hussle over. We ordered a couple of pizzas and a few beer just in time because they were 10 minutes from closing. Fortunately, one of the two proprietors stayed behind so we didn't have to rush. Walnuts on a pizza with giant slices of salami? Weird but not bad. After the late lunch we searched for a place that sells cold beer. Such a place does not exist in Mirano at least. Back to our B&B to chill and get ready for the trip home.





Wednesday, June 7
Checked out of Bohinj to head to Benedke  (Slovenian for Venice). On the way, we stopped at Vintgar Gorge for a short hike. Accommodations in Venice are cramped but modern and clean. For dinner, Justin spotted a roadside sign for "Old Wild West" restaurant that serves burgers, ribs and steaks. Leave it to Justin to sniff out a place that serves lots of meat. Tomorrow we visit Venice for our final day.




Tuesday, June 6
Today was a very pissy day with Italian rain all day. We went to the grocery store to get some Slivolka and chilled for the day making use of the high speed WiFi. Went for dinner at Srednja Vas and had a fabulous schnitzel stuffed with cheese and pršut. I guess we were fortunate to have nothing but Slovenian rain until now for our village visits, zip line, rafting, fishing, Ljubljana and Postojnska Jama adventures.


Monday, June 5
Well, we finally got some Italian rain. For 6 consecutive days, the forecast called for rain but we got nothing but sunshine. So we started calling it Slovenian rain. With the rain, we decided to do some indoor activities. Although Postojna is 100 kms away we decided to do that. Unfortunately, the GPS led us astray because the best route to take would be to go in the opposite direction at the beginning to get to the auto cesta highway. We ended up taking 4 hours to get to Postojna via back roads that had hundreds of switch backs. Besides Postojnska Jama, we saw Predjamski Grad and worked in Ljubljana as well. A very long day but we definitely saw a lot of Slovenia's back country.




Sunday, June 4
A later start today because we were in no particular hurry. Some more shopping and a visit to the bank machine to get more cash before we prepared for a casual hike. We drove to Bohinj Jezero  (Lake Bohinj) but kept going to see Slap Savica with some beers and sandwiched in a knapsack. Later, we took a few beers with us and walked along a trail by the river to watch fishermen and fisherwomen. Nobody was catching anything.  On the way back we encountered what looked like a church that's no longer used and climbed up into the bell tower. Cool. Finally, we went to dinner and ordered wild boar cutlet with dumplings. Delicious. Another chat with the Austrian couple this evening so a late bedtime again.


Saturday, June 3
We're used to pršut and salami with eggs for breakfast so we loaded up at the grocery store.
We got advice to take the Vršič pass through Kranjska Gora to get to Bohinj. Good advice. The trip was considerably longer, especially with the roadwork, but we had time and it was well worthwhile. We set the GPS to avoid the highway so that we'd see some villages and local sights. Along the way we saw a pig roasting for dinner that evening at a gostilna roadside.
A trip to the grocery store for more beer, eggs, pršut and other items and then it was time to check in at the next accommodations. The landlady told us about a trail that runs along the Savica river so off we went to do a little exploring. Along the way, we passed quite a few people and wished them a dober dan but all we got in response was a grunt.  We think they were Italian tourists. Figures. It may also have been because we were carrying Union pivos. Adrian also met a new female friend.

We met an Austrian couple at our B&B (even though we don't get the second B) and chatted until late into the night about Canada, Austria and, of course, Trump  (everybody in Slovenia seems to want to talk about Trump). The Austrians made a point of ensuring we understood they are not Germans just like we're not Americans.





Friday, June 2
Fishing day!
We signed up Adrian and Justin for fly fishing today. I spent the day washing dishes, shopping, and cleaning up the apartment after dropping them off at 8:00 for them to go with the guide. I heard nothing from them so I figured it was lunch bag letdown. I couldn't have been more wrong. When I picked them up at 4:00 the adrenalin was still flowing and the smiles and stories just kept coming. They claim it was the best fishing day they've ever had with each of them catching about a dozen trout. The Soča and Lepena rivers are crystal clear even at 3 meters deep and in some areas they could see 20 to 25 fish swimming around. The day was expensive (€320) but we'll worth it because the guide was thoroughly knowledgeable about the best fishing spots and which flies would work best for the situation (obviously).
Tomorrow we check out and head to Bohinj.

Some photos from yesterday's rafting also provided.






Thursday, June 1
Different breakfast this morning because it's not a B&B. Potica from my cousin and French press coffee based on a package of coffee we bought the night before.
Off to rafting. We got lucky with 3 nice frauleins in our raft rather than the "extreme character" Deutchers in the other rafts. After a quick do's and don'ts lesson, we were off down the supremely clear Soča river. It started off sirene and easy but it wasn't long before the clear, cold water was splashing over us as we avoided the large rocks in the river. About 3 kms down, the guide asked us to fall out of the raft to experience the Soča intimately. The 10 Celsius water causes a serious shock to the system. At that point our Turkish guide offered a joke. What do you call a rafting guide that has no girlfriend? Homeless. Five more kms of rapids and we were wet but, fortunately, the Slovenian rain, as I called it (forecast was for rain yesterday and today but we got nothing but sunshine) warmed and dried us in no time. Upon return to the rafting office, we got the traditional greeting of a few blueberry schnapps shots. 
Back to the townhouse for some beers and then we decided to sign up Adrian and Justin for fly fishing. After we signed up, more blueberry schnapps and a couple beers provided by the outfitter. While enjoying the drinks, we met up with a couple from Oregon and had a long Trump discussion. It seems nobody voted for him but, somehow, he won. Some shopping for some breakfast materials was next and back to the accommodations.
Tomorrow, A&J go fishing, probably experiencing more Slovenian rain i. e. sunshine.

Pic from the balcony attached. Hopefully, pix from rafting to follow once the outfitter sends them. 

Wednesday, May 31
Wake-up call as usual. Video / audio attached.

Paličenke added to all the previous options for breakfast. We paid the bill and off we go to Bovec for some outdoor stuff.
At about 10 mins to 1:00, we arrive at a zip line provider and sign up (1:00 pm start). After driving up the mountain, and a 15 minute lesson, we're looking at a cable that runs across the valley but we can't see the end of it. Next thing we know, we're screeching down a 750 meter zip line, going 50 kms / hr,  300 meters above the valley. Holy sh!t, what an adrenalin rush. Then 4 more zip lines with one that runs at 75 kms / hr for the folks with more "character" (according to the guide) like Justin and me. No one can contain the smiles and the "Holy sh!ts" and the "what a blast" comments.
The new accommodations are spectacular. Two bedrooms with 3 separate beds  (the boys said I get my own room because I'm paying), a fridge, stove, high speed wifi again and all of the elements of a townhouse. Oh, and a mountain view from the back deck. We keep the Slovenian news on in the background in the hopes that the boys will pick up some Slovenian through osmosis.
Since we didn't check in before the zip line (and we killed some time with beers and the view), we had some organizing to do at the new Air B&B so dinner was late. We got pizza take-out that, like seemingly everything (so far) in Slovenia, was delicious, especially with the Laško Temno  (dark) beer and the mountain view.
We've also included the "where's Adrian 2.0" pic.


While the boys are ziplining in Slovenia, the weather here continues to be challenging.  There was another thunderstorm with lightning last night.  The ground is wet and the grass is growing like crazy.  The mosquitos have made an appearance in our back yard and I provided a snack for a number of them.
My car went in for its' one year service and I was informed that BMW has pushed through 2 software updates and that it could take some time.  Armed with this information, I asked for a ride home and let them keep my car.  I figured that I do have several others to chose from in the driveway.  They did finish the car and were able to pick me up at 6:30 so I could get my car back tonight.  That means I have a more relaxing day tomorrow. 
Tuesday, May 30 
Sheesh. Another whirlwind day. 
The day started off the same way with a rooster call.
As usual, too much food for breakfast but we figured we need it for what Cveto had in mind for us. We went to their place and they took us for a hike. Some hike! Up 1027 meters to the top of a mountain called Vremščica. Rang the bell at the top, signed the tourist book and then consume 3 shots of slivolka (plum brandy). The hike started off rough but, with the shots, things kept getting better. Then back down the mountain and back to their place for  "krompir v zelnica (v zevenci- po Nadansko) and ocverki". How did they know that's my favourite meal? I bet Gramma had something to do with it. God it was good but, like I  told them, it was just one notch shy of Grandpa's ocverki and Grama's krompir v zevenci. The view from Cveto's place is something we'll never forget. Incredible.
Now that we were overfed yet again, we went off to Škocjamske jame for a tour of the grotto. 
Back to the B&B for a dip in the pool and then I went to visit my cousin Wilma who had just baked what i would say is the best potica I've ever had. She gave me some to take with me. Then off to Slavko's place for a quick visit.
Finally, midnight bedtime. That's it for visiting the village. Off to Bovec in the morning.
P.S. included is a photo we're calling "where's Adrian" a la "where's Waldo".


Contrast the tourists' day to mine.  We had three separate thunderstorms today.  Jenn brought me some gigantic tomato plants so in between rain, I planted them in the garden.  She also gave me kale seedlings although if they all grow, I am not sure what I will use all that kale for.
The boys will be thrilled to find out that I also did some baking of shortbread crusts ahead of strawberry flan season.  
Monday, May 29
Forgot to mention yesterday that the 1.5 km trip from Jože Grabenčev's place back to the B&B was far more "interesting" than I would have preferred. It was 10:45 and pitch black when the car lights unveiled a deer running by the side of the road. Suddenly, it darted right in front of the car, perhaps 15 meters in front. Fortunately, I was driving about 20 kms / hr so there was no "event". Just what I need; hit a deer with an Italian rental car.
This morning, another robust breakfast of concentrated caffeine (European coffee), pršut, cheese, salami, orange juice, nectarines and eggs. For some reason, the pršut is melt-in-your-mouth tasty and the eggs are disproportionately delicious. Justin says he discussed it with Matej Lenarčič (Carl's cousin's son) who told him it's because the pršut is homemade from pigs that were fed human food scraps rather than animal feed and the chickens are free range. You can't get this stuff in Ljubljana.  
After breakfast, we visit with Cveto Lenarčič, his wife and his son Luke. More pršut (of course), homemade bread from flour they had milled from the wheat they grew, slivolka they made themselves, homemade Jaeger, beer, Tehran vino and fresh strawberries that had intense strawberry taste (van you say strawberry flan?) they picked that morning from their own plot of land. Apparently, they pick and sell 2 tons of strawberries yearly. Astounding view from their place.
It's close to noon so off to Stanko Šprohar's place for a visit. Eventually, the whole extended family shows up but not before we eat some more. This time it's potica, biscuits, a variety of baked snack items and, naturally, beer, vino, and sok. We check out Stanko's setup in his basement to heat the house. A wood-fired boiler heats water that's piped throughout the house (3 separated sections for Stanko and Sylvia, Dušan and his family, and Tanja and her family). He's got about 20 face cords of wood out back that would last him 2 winters.
Back to the B&B for a quick swim in the pool before another impressive Slovenian dinner (pork schnitzel, potato salad and chocolate cake with ice cream). However, it was just me and Justin for dinner.
Adrian Facebook-befriended Eva that he met at my cousin Fani's place and she picked him up to go for a hike up a hill some place. Quite the workout, he says. The highlight was some guy that apparently regularly does this hike naked (yes, really). Adrian was told the guy also does naked bike riding. Adrian also reports that he was fortunate that he only saw the guy from behind. Sorry, no pic. Adrian returns 2 hours later and the lady at the B&B whips up a dinner for him anyway.
A schnapps before bedtime and we're done for today.
By the way, so far, Lučin's pršut is the best.



At home, Monica is spending the day with her niece Jennifer, since it is her birthday.  We are doing girly things like face masks and manicures.  Snacks include a shrimp cocktail and scallops with rice. 
Sunday, May 28
Another very busy day. We started off with a massive breakfast at the B&B. Then off to the grocery store for a short stop and then to cousin Fani's place. Her whole family showed up and, of course, the župa, beers, vino, pršut, cheese, homemade bread and sweet treats came out. Then off to Nadanje Selo to see the procesija and partake in the cheese, beers, pršut, wine and treats. Adrian and Justin chatted it up with my cousin's son that speaks english. 
If that wasn't enough food yet, we went off to the Koniček gostilna for pizza and beers where I met my old buddy Jože Grabenčev from 50 years ago. So, I dropped off the guys and went over to his place for a chat for a couple hours. Tomorrow more visits. Whew! Need some rest and less food.



Meanwhile, back in Canada, Monica and her cousin Kathy had a nice, relaxing Saturday evening catching up.  We had a delicious filling brunch at Cora's this morning.  Kathy had to return to Meaford to look after a sick daughter and help someone move.  I was glad she was able to take the time out to come visit with me.
Happy Birthday, Jessica!
Saturday, May 27, 2017 
All was good for the departure from Toronto and we arrived in Venice a few minutes early. Some hassles with the rental car company as they tried to give us a car that was previously beaten up badly. A replacement was found and we were on our way. We stopped at Rudi's place (my cousin) and drank all his Laško. He's ok with that because it was left over from some event (he says). Then off to Pri Andrejovih turistična kmetija to check in and get some dinner. Some dinner! Home made beef soup from a cow they raised and butchered, salad, entree of beef, pork, pršut wrapped asparagus, mashed potatoes mixed with sauerkraut and spiced and, finally, whipped cream chocolate cake. A walk was in order. Tomorrow, Fani' s place (cousin) for lunch and then a procesija religious celebration in the late afternoon in Nadanje Selo (parents' village). A rather full first day.




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