Thursday 30 June 2016

2016 July Canada Cross Country in an RV

JULY 31.  SUNDAY.  VICTORIA
Flowers, flowers and more flowers was what we saw today at The Butchart Gardens, now a National Historic Site.  This is one of the nicest gardens I have ever seen.  Grama would love it here. The colours are spectacular, the grounds are pristeen and there are 6 different garden styles.  The Sunken Garden was the most amazing.  Here Jennie Butchart transformed a limestone quarry into a garden oasis complete with a 21m waterfall.






After  hours of walking, we went back to Langford and decided to catch the new Star Trek movie.  The critics didn't seem to like it but I enjoyed it.  
We tried to make a reservation on the ferry to Vancouver but they were not taking any reservations.  So, tomorrow we are getting up early and going to stand/sit in line at the ferry dock in the hope that we can cross over.   
JULY 30. SATURDAY. VICTORIA
This morning we caught a bus from Langford to Victoria.  With an all day pass for $5 we could get into town and around if we chose to.  The bus dropped us right in front the of BC Legislature Buildings so we went over to sign up for a tour, 1 1/2 hours from now.  That gave us time to go to the Visitor Center, the Bastion marketplace, Chinatown and walk around the harbour.  It was interesting talking to various people today about the weather.  It was a beautiful 20oC today and everyone was complaining about the heat and, how this is as hot as it gets here in Victoria.  This weather is so amazing!  





We debated having lunch but decided instead to walk up to the Criagdorroch Castle.  This is a Victoria era, scottish baronial mansion with a very interesting family history.  Coal baron Robert Dunsmuir didn't survive to move into his castle.  This fact was apparently foretold  by a psychic and he didn't believe it.  Apparently his doctor told him that he had nothing to worry about.  He got sick and died shortly thereafter.  Rumour has it that he was a very heavy drinker and it was likely cirrhosis that killed him.  

After walking there, and around 4 floors of castle, we chose to bus it back to the harbour and get some food.  With full tum tums we caught the bus back to Langford and our deluxe accomodations at Walmart.  

JULY 29. FRIDAY, QUALICUM FALLS PP TO LANGFORD
Leaving Qualicum Falls park we took the scenic route towards Victoria.  The map makes it look like a nice drive alongside the ocean but in fact you only see trees and experience bumpy, twisty, turny roads.  The trailer got a good shake up.  


The first few campgrounds we encountered on this loop were full but we kept going.  Finally in Sooke we stopped at a visitor center and determined that the Walmart in Langford was going to be our final destination.  When we got there, I checked with the security guard and he said we were ok to spend a couple of nights so we parked far away from the store and wasted away the evening.

JULY 28. THURSDAY. QUALICUM FALLS PP TOFINO/UCLUELET
In order to get a place for tonight we had to wait until 9 to see if any campsites would become vacant for 2 nights.  Carl managed to snag one so we moved the trailer over and then drove west.  
McLean National Historic Sawmill Site was in Port Alberni and caught our interest and we were lucky enough to see the restored saw mill run with the old steam engine.  Other restored buildings include the bunkhouse, office, cold room and head sawyers house.  The lumber that is cut here is sold to Home Hardware.  




We left Port Alberni for a 2 hour trip to Tofino on other twisty curvy road.  In Tofino, we walked the small town and then visited Chesterman Beach and Cox Bay.  The sand beaches are really nice and the water is beautiful.  Surfers like Cox Bay because the waves are better. Carl managed to find a craft brew pub so of course we had to stop in.






for a pint and a few takeaways.  We had to drive back on the same road for a bit to get to Ucluelet.
Ucluelet was a much quieter town.  It seemed more laid back.  The Big Beach we visited was water and volcanic rock so, while pretty, not as inviting as a same beach. There is a short trail called Ancient Cedars loop that had some very old trees in it.  




The two hour drive back to Port Alberni was uneventful except for a dinner break at The Bavaria House.  The food was amazing, filling and lots and there was still enough leftovers for another meal. A good deal was had.  



It was dark by the time we got to the campsite but Carl wanted a fire so he made one and sat outside for a while longer than I did.
JULY 27. WEDNESDAY. PORT MCNEILL TO QUALLICOM FALLS
Telegraph Cove was a bust! There was nowhere to park with a trailer and all pay parking and small spots.  We couldn't even look around, not that there was much to see.  We basically just drove around and then back out to the highway.  The ocean is quite far away and you can only get glimpses of it through the village, unless you are a kayaker or on a whale watching cruise.  What a shame!


I saw a cute saying posted on a billboard today.  It said, LIVE SO THEY WON'T HAVE TO LIE AT YOUR FUNERAL.  
The rest of the day was sent on the road driving south.  This island is big.  We refilled with gas at the Costco in Courtenay for $104.9/l and bought a new wiper blade while we were there.  

At Quallicon Beach we stopped at the visitor center to see if they could help us get a place for the next 2 nights.  They told us most places are booked up, especially in advance of the long weekend.  We were however able to get a site at Quallicom Falls Prov Park in the overflow parking lot.  It will do for one night since we are going to Tofino/Ucluelet for Thursday.  


JULY 26. PORT MCNEILL, PORT HARDY, PORT ALICE
We had a late start today but drove to Port Hardy.  There is very little draw here for people not interested in outdoor experiences.  The town is basic, not pretty at all.  The harbour is a nicer area.  It took about an hour to walk the main shopping area and the harbour and then moved on to see Port Alice.  



Port Alice is 60km southwest and along a twisty turny road that is like a roller coaster.  It is on Neroutsos Inlet.  The setting is positively stunning.  This small town is pretty and quiet and if you get sick, there is a medical building and if necessary you can be moved by helicopter to the nearest hospital. We stopped to get information about the Alice Lake Loop trail.  I had read about some unique geological limestone formations and wanted to see them. We were able to get a trail map using the wifi at the library and, we set off.


First we went out to look at the Neucel pulp mill at the end of town and also the seawalk.  After that we got off the beaten path to a gravel road (fortunately no trailer was with us).  The Trail showed an Eternal Fountain and the Devil's Bath that were of interest.  The Eternal Fountain is a waterfall that appears from a crevice beneath the ground and disappears deeper underground where the water travels through caves and caverns on its way.



Devil's Bath is Canada's only cenote.  It was created from limestone being dissolved and creating holes in the form of tunnels until they collapse and form a sinkhole.  There is debris(logs) collected on the side where the water is flowing from.  After seeing both of these formations we drove back on the twisty curvy road and when we got back to the trailer got ready for dinner.



Carl noticed that we have a laundry on site so we were able to do one load of laundry.  More laundry will be done next place we go to.  
JULY 25. MONDAY. NANAIMO TO PORT McNEILL
Heading to north Vancouver Island today we drove the Oceanside Route.  It was a pretty drive, sometimes beside the ocean with views of water and mountains in the distance.  

Chainsaw carving caught our attention as we drove through Campbell River.  The carvings were incredible and we took quite a few pictures. 




 North of Campbell River a single lane highway headed further north with trees on both sides of the road and more mountains in the distance. There was evidence of logging almost everywhere on the hillsides.  

We arrived Port McNeil late in the afternoon and made our way to a campsite high up on a hill but, it was not expensive and had all the hookups.  We settled in for dinner and then made plans for Tuesday sightseeing.  
JULY 24. SUNDAY. NANAIMO, VANCOUVER ISLAND
The bathrub races were our destination this morning and although we anticipated that it would be busy, we arrived in lots of time to secure a seat in a prime viewing location in the harbour.  The take off of the 42 bathtub boats occured quickly and then there was a wait of 1 1/2 hours.  Finally the boats started roaring back on.  This was quite fun to watch them zoom in, try to stand on rubbery legs and then run up the gangplank to ring the bell.  A few boats didn't make it and had to be towed back in.  We had a fun time here.  



When I heard about the Nanaimo Bar Trail, I was hooked and knew I had to participate.  Fortunately, Carl's interest and mine coincided.  A brew pub had fresh craft beer  and a nanaimo bar cheesecake.  The beer turned out to be really good(according to Carl) and the cheesecake.

Back we went to the visitor center to plan our trip to the north Vancouver Island for the next couple of days.  I left armed with lots more brochures.  Every day I have to clean up the brochures from the pile under my feet and in the front window of the truck.  
At the trailer park we explored the 15 minute trail to the swimming hole on the river.  When we arrived at the river, we interrupted a lady swimming, au naturel, and it wasn't pretty.  The river however was very nice.  


Since we had a good sized lunch, neither of us wanted to make a dinner and the rest of the evening was spent relaxing at the picnic table.
JULY 23. SATURDAY. SQUAMISH TO VANCOUVER ISLAND
It was a short drive to the Ferry Terminal at Horseshoe Bay.  We just missed getting on the 10:40 ferry but we got in line for the 12:50 sailing.  It cost $215 to cross with the truck and trailer and 2 people.  While we waited we went for a little walk to the nearby village.  
I hadn't realized that it took 1 1/2 hours to cross to Vancouver Island.  On the map, it looks like such a small distance.  It was a sunny, windy trip but quite peaceful.  

The first stop in Nanaimo was the Visitor Center.  Nanaimo has over 80,000 people, another things I didn't know.  The visitor center informed us that most RV parks were booked up but we did get a spot outside of Nanaimo for 2 nights.  Mountainare turned out to be just fine for our purposes and we dropped the trailer.  Since time is short here after dinner, we drove up to Benson Mountain View Park but it turns out you can only see the view if you do a 5-7 hour hike or peek across the street through other peoples yards.  We had heard earlier that there would be fireworks due to the Bathrub Races festival this weekend so we decided to go watch them and headed into downtown Nanaimo.  We had our lawn chairs in the truck and found a prime location for viewing and then waited until 10 o'clock.  The fireworks were very good.  They lasted 18 minutes and were set to music from 1967.  It was well worth the wait.  We didn't have much trouble getting out of town even though everything was jammed and then headed back to bed.  I was pooped. 



JULY 22. FRIDAY. CLINTON TO SQUAMISH
Hwy 99. We were warmed about this highway by two people.  They both said not to drive this road with a trailer because it was tricky but Carl wanted to drive it so  . . .  The first part of the highway to Lilloet turned out to be a little challenging with the driving.  The landscapes were quite varied from arid to more lush forested vistas.  We stopped and bought gas in Lilloet for $1.22/L.  



After Lilloet, the road became more interesting with switchbacks and steep grades of 9-13%.  Just before Pemberton the brakes started smelling and, when we pulled over to let them cool off, noticed they were also smoking a bit.  After waiting a bit we finished the next portion of the drive towards Whistler.  We could see the ski slopes in the distance.  We spent some time looking around at the village but noticed that there was only restaurants, shops and bars and since we were not eating, shopping or drinking we decided to move on.  The place was really busy, I guess in preparation for the Subaru Ironman Triathalon competition this coming Sunday.   
We had hoped to camp at Alice Lake but the campground was full and so it went, until we hit Squamish.  The visitor center gave us the name of a local campground and we found a spot there.  Becky at the visitor center was very helpful with information about ferries and things to do in Vancouver. Becky was 23 years old from Kitchener/Waterloo, going to school here and working at the visitor center for the summer.

Carl made bison burgers on the bbq for dinner with corn on the cob.  Tomorrow we are going to Vancouver to catch the ferry to Nanaimo, Vancouver Island.  We will likely be there about a week.  
JULY 21. THURSDAY. PRINCE GEORGE TO CLINTON
We had a good sleep, especially me using the borrowed electricity from the neighbour in the parking lot to run my CPAP machine.  Today we drove south in the interior of BC getting closer to Vancouver.  
At Williams Lake we stopped for a breather and toured the Museum of the Cariboo Chilcotin. Highlights included displays portraying the cattle ranching, mining and timber production history.  
At 4:30 we pulled in the Gold Creek RV Park and set up for the night.  The owner also runs an attached little restaurant and he tried to talk us into eating dinner there.  We thought about it and decided to try it.  The owner also has a small garden near our trailer and sold us a beautiful bunch of romaine for $2.

Dinner turned out to be very tasty.  I had bbq chicken and Carl bbq ribs with sides of cowboy beans, zuccini casserole, mashed potatoes, indian rice and garlic bread.  The cook/owner asked if we wanted dessert but he wouldn't tell us what it was.  He only said that it came with 2 spoons and guaranteed we would lick the plate clean when we were done.  How could we resist?  Dessert turned out to be a berry cobbler with black cherry ice cream and it was delicous.  We were both stuffed when we left.  


The rest of the evening passed quickly and quietly.   
JULY 20. WEDNESDAY. FRANCOIS LAKE TO PRINCE GEORGE
Today we were just driving to Prince George.  When we arrived we first went to Costco for a few supplies and then to the Visitor Center downtown.  We got some travel information here and free wifi to catch up on my blog and emails.  I had seen a Dollarama on the way into town and had a list of things I wanted to buy there so we went back and did some shopping.  

For overnight, we parked at the Casino parking lot.  There is one corner designated for Rv's.  
Our neighbour here was running a generator and asked if it bothered us because he needs it overnight for his cpap machine.  I said that it didn't bother us because it was pretty quiet and I also used a machine so I understand.  Then he offered for me to plug the trailer into his generator so I could use my machine overnight.  That was so nice!
JULY 19. TUESDAY. SMITHERS TO FRANCOIS LAKE
This morning I felt like the camping world was out to get me.  I had been anticipating an nice, long, hot, comfy shower for 2 days and when I turned on the faucet, nothing.  I called Carl who had gone to get the oil in the truck changed but he didn't know why this was happening.  Left with no other choice, I gathered up my paraphenalia and headed for the public showers.  I turned on the water and . . . it was cold but, I let it run.  I almost went to complain and then it gradually warmed up.  I finally got my shower.  Upon Carls return he checked the water and, it WORKED.  I think so many RV's were filling up their tanks, drawing out water from the well and I happened to try at the exact wrong time.  
After packing up we drove to Burns Lake and from there headed south to Francois Lake on the recommendation of a man we met earlier on a hiking trail.  We found a free campsite on the lake with waves lapping at the waters edge.  We chatted a while with the other couple that was camped here and made friends with their dog.  He wanted me to play tug of war so I did.  


Dinner was enjoyed at our picnic table and then we read until bedtime.    
JULY 18. MONDAY. PRINCE RUPERT TO SMITHERS
We arrived in Terrace around noon, bought a replacement valve for the fresh water tank, had the chip in the windshield patched, bought some groceries and got back on the highway headed for Smithers.  
We set up camp at Glacier View RV park, so named because . . . it has a view of the glacier. We have all the hookups here except wifi.  They wanted $3 for wifi so that didn't happen.  We then viewed the town of Smithers.  It is very quaint and has a European atmosphere.  It is a small town but has lots of amenities like Canadian Tire, DQ, Sears and even A&W and McDonalds.  


We had dinner outside on the picnic table.  After dinner, Carl worked on repairing the fresh water valve.  Carl took out Anna Marie's old tablecloth for the tenth time this trip to do the work.


The incoming thunderstorm finally drove us inside for the evening.  
JULY 17. SUNDAY. PORT EDWARD AND PRINCE RUPERT
North Pacific Cannery Museum was where we spent the morning.  We were able to catch 2 tours which took us until noon.  The history of salmon fishing and processing in this area was quite interesting.  The tours included the work and living quarters of the workers who were Chinese, First Nations and European. 


Carl thought Ma would get a kick out of this washing machine.  If she wants one, he can geet it for her for $25.00 from the company store.  
Prince Rupert has a good visitor center = fantastic wifi and some interesting facts about the port.  I had no idea how much cargo takes this route to the East.  
The waterfront is quite pretty with lots of boats/yachts.  We stumbled upon a little craft brewery so Carl had to stop in for a pint and some takeaway when the beer proved to be quite tasty.  

Since we hadn't eaten lunch we asked for a recommendation and Bob's Fish n Chips at the harbour seemed a good bet.  It was some of the best fish I have eaten so far.  We had both cod and halibut.  


On the way back to the campsite we stopped at Oliver Lake.  We walked the short boardwalk to see some stunted trees that look like bonsai trees.  

Another trip advisor suggestion was the Butze Rapids Park and Trail so we set off on a 4 km hike to see the reversing rapids.  The tide was just going out and you could see a bit of water flowing backwards over the rapids but, it wasn't &sensational& and we still had to hike back.  At least, I hope we walked off some of the fish n chips.  


We sat outside at our picnic table until the sun went down.  It is very strange here in that, there don't seem to be any mosquitos.  I have not had to do bug spray at this site.  
JULY 16. SATURDAY. STEWART TO PRINCE RUPERT
Carl made us a pancake breakfast and incorporated the salmonberries and some apricots into the batter.  They were delicious.
On the drive back to Hwy 37, the sun was out so we could actually see the two glaciers by the roadside, and the waterfalls.  



We spent the day driving (me sitting and some napping) to just before Prince Rupert.  We set up at Prudhomme Lake Provincial Park for the next two nights.  Before bed, we made a little trip to the convenience store in Port Edward where we were able to get some eggs for breakfast.   

JULY 15. FRIDAY. STEWART/HYDER
Today we had arranged to be ready to be picked up at 10 so we managed that. Bill drove us out of Stewart, over the border to Hyder, Alaska and then the 37 km scenic trip to the Summit view of Salmon glacier.  It was a beautiful day, good company and amazing views. The glacier was fabulous; one of the h neatest things I have seen so far.



 We stopped at the Fish creek observation platform going up to the glacier and again on the way back in the hope that bears might be feeding on the spawning salmon. The bears did not cooperate but watching the fish was interesting.



We hosted a burger dinner at our campsite. The burgers were pretty tasty considering they were store bought.  They were PC Angus burgers we bought at the little grocery store on the main street.  After dinner, Bill drove us back to the Fish Creek viewing station.  It was our hope to see a bear there.  We waited and watched the fish then, a beaver building a dam on the other side of the boardwalk.  Finally, a bear came lumbering down the stream ever so slowly but when he saw/heard all the people on the viewing platform he turned around and left.  Even though people were told to turn off their camera flashes and be quiet,  there were a few idiots who didn't listen and as a result the crowd scared him away.  The ranger said that this bear had likely not yet been acclimatized to tourists.  I got a picture of the bear in retreat.

Though we waited another while, that bear didn't return and we headed back to get dessert; a cherry pie.  Earlier I had baked the pie, from frozen, in the toaster oven outside on the picnic table.  That's what I call roughing it.  Before we knew it, we all pooped out, said our goodbyes until the next connection and went to bed.  

JULY 14. THURSDAY. STEWART
Today was a day off from travelling.  We have been keeping a pretty good pace. The morning was spent sitting in the outdoor kitchen and surfing the net(when it would connect). The sun came out, burned off the clouds and gave us a stunning view of the mountains.

In the afternoon we walked around and into town and purchased a few more groceries at the other grocery store.  On our walk we noticed some red berries that looked similar to raspberries so Carl tried some.  It later occured to me to identify what we had eaten.  As far as I could tell from the internet , the berries are thimbleberries and safe to eat.  We later picked some to eat with our breakfast tomorrow (if we make it through the night).

We are quite enjoying this little town although there are signs everywhere that it has seen better days. Many buildings are for sale, help wanted posters are up, and in many places there is junk lying around on business and home properties.


We had almost finished making dinner when I heard a truck pull up outside and when I peeked out the window I got a surprise; our friends had just arrived in town.  Since we were all hungry we decided to go out for dinner and we had to try the fish and chips in this town.  Everyone ordered the same thing and we all enjoyed our dinner thoroughly.  To walk off some of the food we headed off to the boardwalk beside the Visitor Center.  I had promised earlier to teach the folks how to play Dominos so we went back to their trailer for some instruction.  They were quick learners and soon our game was finished.  It was past these old folks bedtime so that was it for the night.  
JULY 13. WEDNESDAY. ISKUT TO STEWART,BC
It rained yesterday evening and into the night but it stopped by morning.  We set off under cloudy skies but later encountered rain most of the way to Stewart.  
Even though the weather was still cloudy from the Junction we were still able to see several ice fields/glaciers, many waterfalls and a bear who stayed right beside the truck at the side of the road.  That was cool to see.




Upon arrival in Stewart we got our info from the Visitor Center, registered at the Rainey Creek campground, collected our laundry and took it to the Prince Edward Hotel where the laundromat is, and did laundry.  Carl scouted out the liquor store (not much beer selection, he says) and asked if there was any good pizza place in town.  


With the laundry complete, we decided to treat ourselves to pizza for dinner.  Food is quite expensive here (bread for $4.50) so we bought just 2 things and then went to retrieve our pizza.  The pizza turned out to be good although not as good as Mile0 pizza in Dawson Creek.  
JULY 12. TUESDAY. WATSON LAKE TO ISKUT
Needing gas we drove into Watson Lake.  While there I returned the Yukon passports to the Visitor Center for a chance to win 1 oz of gold.  Upon getting back to the truck Carl noticed the fresh water tank handle had broken off again and all our water had leaked out.  We were unable to acquire a replacement part in Watson Lake.
Backtracking to the Stewart Cassiar Highway we drove southbound into BC.  The guide book suggested a stop at Boya Lake Provincial Park to view  the white marl bottom lake with clear water and an aqua green colour. The unique lake colour was worth the 3 km detour.

At km 120, we stopped briefly at the Cassiar Mountain Jade store in Jade City.  Jade City is named for its extensive jade deposits found nearby.  Carl was much more impressed with the unique picnic table design he found outside than the jade.
About 30km before Diese Lake, an oncoming truck threw up a stone and it hit and chipped our windshield so another repair will be upcoming.  
We arrived at Mountain Shadow Rv park around 6 o'clock, got set up, had dinner and relaxed for the evening.  We have limited wifi here so can check emails at least.    


JULY 11. MONDAY. SKAGWAY TO WATSON LAKE
We left beautiful Skagway climbing back up the mountain and crossed Customs (again).  The sun was shining which as you know has been a rare occurence for us.  
At the Carcross Desert we stopped, walked around, marvelled at the sand and then took some pics.  Seeing a desert here in the Yukon is very cool and unexpected.  



The afternoon went by just driving to outside of Watson Lake.  We stopped for our overnight at a state park called Big Creek.  No amenities here other than firewood.  Carl had fun chopping up firewood for a fire using Justin's super sharpened hatchet. 


JULY 10. SUNDAY. SKAGWAY
We bid our friends goodbye as they headed off for their next destination.  We spent a quiet morning waiting for our afternoon train ride.  
At 12:30 we went over to the Train station to board our train up the mountain.  It was a nice train ride to the summit where the US/Canada border is.  We enjoyed the afternoon crossing past Bridal Veil Falls (6000' foot cascade), 2 tunnels and very cool remnants of the famous trail of '98.









Upon returning to town, we retrieved our devices and walked down to the library to get the free wifi.  We got kicked out when it closed so we went home and had dinner.   It was a quiet evening for us.  
JULY 9. SATURDAY. SKAGWAY
The Skagway Visitor Center staff helped us plan our first destination, the Chilkoot Trail.  The drive was 10 miles out on a gravel road to the site of the original town (Indian summer camp), Dyea.  All that is out there are information boards about the site and the tidal plains. 


We also saw the Slide Cemetary from April 3, 1891 and a beautiful view of the town, the river and harbour.


It is funny how cemetaries become tourist attractions so the second cemetary was the Gold Rush Cemetary with all its ensuing history.  Most popular is the story of Jefferson Randolph &Soapy& Smith, king of the frontier conmen.  Soapy was killed in a shootout in July 1898. Unfortunately, the shooter was also mortally wounded by Soapy and also died.   A short trail leads from the cemetary to Lower Reid Falls and they were very pretty.

We spent a few hours walking around the streets and shops of Skagway.  There are a LOT of jewellery stores.  To access wifi, we stopped at the library for a bit.  
Our kind friends, Bill and Ruth had us over for supper with pulled pork sandwiches. How deluxe! Carl contributed by making coleslaw.   After dinner, we went to the &Days of 98& show with Soapy Smith.  Before the show we were given $1,000 of funny money to gamble with.  I did terrible at Roulette and went back to the Black Jack table where I did a bit better.  We all finished in the plus side.  The show is a mixture of poetry, singing, dancing and fun.  Our friend Bill, got selected from the audience by the two showgirls to be their sweetheart.  Bill was a good sport and it was very entertaining.  We laughed a lot.

With the show concluded, Bill took us out for a drink to try Spruce Tip beer.  The gentlemen agreed that it was very tasty.  Thanks to Bill and Ruth for sticking around an extra day and for a memorable evening.  

We walked back to the trailer park and shortly headed for bed.  Us old folks need our sleep, you know.
JULY 8. FRIDAY. LAKE CREEK CAMP TO SKAGWAYT
The first hours drive was gruelling with gravel roads, bumps and construction stops.  It turned out to be a precursor for the morning with continuous patches of gravel and paved bumpy roads.
Around noon we arrived at Haines Junction Visitor Centre and requested information about the Haines to Skagway ferry.  The ferry does not run every day and is very expensive and difficult to get a spot on.  That made our decision easier and we set off for Skagway.
South of Whitehorse, Emerald Lake on the Klondike Highway stopped us cold.  The colours in the lake were astounding.  I have never seen anything like it.  

North of Carcross is the smallest desert in the world.  The desert was created by retreating glaciers that left a sandy lake bottom.  Winds from nearby Lake Benett shift the sands and limit vegetation.
This highway exposed some of the most scenic vistas to date this trip.  It was a little dicey going down the mountain to the ocean.  My knee was getting sore from pushing in the brake(LOL). Skagway was the embarkation point for the famous Chilkoot Pass. The town has been deemed a National Historic Site and many store facades mimic the Gold rush days.



Since our friends were staying at the same RV park in town, we were able to find them and after dinner, we chatted for a few hours, comparing experiences until bedtime.  
JULY 7. THURSDAY. GLENELLEN TO BEAVER CREEK, YT
Morning found us on the Tok cut off highway and bouncing up and down like a trampoline.  The road is paved but wavy when you look at it if you can imagine such a thing.  The countryside is again mountainous with forests and the occasional lake.  The day had started sunny, but later changed to occasional showers and that was how the rest of the day went.  
We stopped for lunch in Tok at Fast Eddy's on the recommendation of the lady at the Visitor Center.  Lunch turned out to be ok but not as good as she had implied.  


We now drove on the Alaska Highway and passed through Canada Customs.  At around 6:30 we arrived at the Yukon Government State campground and had our pick of sites since there was only one other camper here. 


JULY 6. SEWARD TO ANCHORAGE
HAPPY BIRTHDAY FRANCES
It seems like it just rains and rains here and, if it isn't raining it is cloudy.  We had such a short time here to enjoy the views and then we had to move on. We drove back through Anchorage and stopped to get a part for the furnace.  We had to go to two separate places to get a part that is similar to what was in the furnace.

We continued on the Glenn Highway through more mountainous country.  A bonus was a bit of sunshine and another glacier; the Matanuska Glacier.  It was really lovely to see.  We stopped several times to look and take pictures.  




Arrival at Glenellen was after 6 and we set up quickly.  I made dinner and Carl worked on the furnace.  It looks like the furnace works again.  We have to give it a longer term test.  YAY! Just my luck that the weather will likely warm up now.  Two more days of driving to get back to Whitehorse.  Alaska is big and FAR. 
JULY 5. TUESDAY. SEWARD
The No. 1 Trip Advisor To do in Seward is the Alaska Sealife Cente and since it was cloudy and drizzly we decided to have a look at the place.  The admission price was a bit steep.  For me the highlight was the Aviary , where wild seabirds flew, swam and dove.  I got so close to a tufted Puffin that he splashed me when he was bathing.  I laughed so hard watching these birds antics.  The way they flew and then landed in the water was hysterical.  Carl practically had to drag me out of there and that was the second time I went in.  


In the next tank was a full grown sea lion and he was just swimming around in circles.  Once he got out of the water and bellowed for what I assumed was his lunch.  Lastly came the two harbour seals who were frolicking in the water.  These guys were really cute.


There were also lots of other species of Alaskan fish and sea creatures in water tanks with glass windows for viewing.  
Leaving the Sealife Center we visited the Seward Visitor Center to charge our devices, get our emails and update my blog.  Next door we bought a few groceries at the Safeway.  
In the afternoon, Carl tackled the job of taking apart the furnace.  He cleaned every piece he could get to.  When he was outside removing the vent cover a gentleman approached and asked him what was going on.  It turned out that this man used to service Rv's and he was kind enough to help Carl figure out that the furnace problem was likely a switch.  They removed the switch and determined that we should be able to get a replacement in Anchorage.  By this time, it was already evening and Carl went out to the neighbours campfire while I read.  

JULY 4. MONDAY. HOMER TO SEWARD
Before we could get underway, we had to stop and dump our used water from the trailer and get some fresh water.  Just as we were turning in to the dump, we spotted 2 eagles and their nest.  I got a picture but it is a little to far away to see much.

Most of the day was spent driving to Seward and when we got there we drove straight to the waterfront thinking we could get a spot like we had in Homer.  We did manage to find a spot right on Resurrection Bay but it didn't have hookups.  It did however have a view of the bay, the mountains and a cruise ship. 


There were so many people milling about in town that it was stop and go traffic on the main street.  
We soon discover that the Visitor Centre had closed for the day so we went to visit the Exit Glacier Nature Center.  The center and trail turned out to be open so we walked the one mile trail as far as the park would let us go.  We were so fortunate that the rain held off during our walk.  The glacier proved to be really interesting, a real wonder of nature.  




The next surprise occured just as we were pulling into the campground.  There was a reindeer in the back of a small pick up truck.  I believe this man raises them. He said he had tried his hand with cattle but it hadn't worked out.  

After dinner we made plans for the next couple of days and then Carl went outside and I started organizing my pictures and working on my blog until bedtime.  
JULY 3. SUNDAY. HOMER
This morning we got lucky and found a permanent site backing onto the ocean so we pulled the trailer over there and unhooked it. There didn't seem to be any point moving on today since we heard Seward was also packed and we don't know if we can find a campsite along the way.



Once situated we drove to the end of Homer Spit.  There were so many people and rv rigs as well.  Then we went to the Visitor Centre to use their free wifi to catch up on emails and my blog.
After doing the research on the trailer furnace at the Visitor Center we spent some time at the Islands and Ocean Visitor Center.  We learned a lot about the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge which covers a large portion of the Aleutian Islands and some islands off the coast of Alaska.  We learned about the history of the islands and what programs the government is undertaking now to keep track of wildlife and ocean changes.  There is one group of islands called the Rat Islands because rats left ships and invaded the islands killing the local seabirds.  Another group is called the Fox Islands because fox were left on the islands to multiply for the fur trade which unfortunately collapsed and the fox ate the seabirds.  On another island, cattle were introduced and then left behind and they are still there running wild.  In addition, there are still people living on some of these remote islands; some military and some native.
After the center closed, we continued our tour of the town of Homer.  It didn't take long.  Homer is a cute little town with a lot of amenties such as a bowling alley, a theatre, grocery stores and even a Radio Shack.  

In the evening after a delectable spaghetti dinner, we walked along the beach while the tide was out.  
JULY 2. SATURDAY. ANCHORAGE TO HOMER
Ongoing repairs! We located an RV dealer and wanted to get a new fresh water tank handle. The original one broke on the Dempster Highway.  At the first place there were no parts available so, as per the sign on the door we went to the second location.  They referred us to the third location.  The part was indeed available there and we got it for FREE (not sure how much it cost us in gas to get here).  
Our drive continue to the Kenai Penninsula.  The sun was out and the scenery was gorgeous until mid afternoon.  We went into the Kenai Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center and when we came out it was raining.  Another hours drive brought us to Homer.  Just before Homer, we drove through Anchor Point and it is apparently North America's most westerly highway point (a little trivia).
At Homer, we discovered that there were no RV sites available anywhere because it was the long weekend.  We ended up at Homer Spit in overflow camping with a bunch of other people whom I am guessing were in the same boat.  The worst was when we turned on the propane and tried to start the furnace.  It didn't start even after Carl tried everything he knew to make it go so, I put on my long underwear and hunkered down for the night.  I was not happy but it was just another of those unforeseen things that keeps happening to us.  With no electricity, I just read a book by the window light and went to bed early, curling up in my down duvet. 

JULY 1. FRIDAY. ANCHORAGE
Another indoor viewing day started at the Alaska Native Heritage center.  There are a lot of different tribes in Alaska.  Upon entering the center we sat and watched a dance performance.  Outside the building are 6 native dwellings with guides available for questions.  These were very neat to see especially the ones that are buried in the side of a hill or buried into the earth in perma frost.  One dwelling had an emergency tunnel with a hole at the interior end in case a bear was chasing the person.  The hole was measured and only big enough to fit the largest man or a pregnant woman from that home.  



The second museum we saw was the Anchorage Museum.  The top 2 floors were artists works relating to the North.  The 2nd floor was more about each of the indigenous peoples and their history.  I have never really thought much about how the Russians interfered with the native people by bringing sickness and looking for animal and mineral resources.  The Russians almost hunted the sea otters into extinction enslaving natives as hunters to help them.  To this day, the sea otters are endangered and protected.
For dinner, we checked out a local spot called Humpy's.  Here we ordered one cod and chips and one halibut and chips and taste tested to see if we could tell the difference and which one we liked better.  Neither of us could tell which was which but, we both liked the Alaskan Cod over the Alaskan Halibut.  Dinner was great leaving no room for dessert, darn!

The Costco is right across the street from the RV camp so we went in and looked around.  We bought some beer and some food and then went to get our propane tank refilled.  After all todays activity, it was time to rest and prepare for tomorrow's trek. 

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