It has been a long 2+ years of not being able to travel. We are finally heading out to see one of the places on our bucket list. By all accounts, Iceland is a beautiful and wild country and, we hope to see a lot of it. The tour we have booked with Nordic Visitor is called the Iceland Complete Classic. It is 14 days, 13 nights, includes a car (you pick the kind), accomodation (you pick the level) and a detailed travel guide for each day. August 15th is our departure day, arriving August 16th at 9:00 am in Iceland (barring any unforeseen circumstances). Read along with me as we explore this amazing island.
AUG 15, 2022 LEAVING TORONTO FOR REYKJAVIK, ICELAND
This is the first time that I have ever gone on vacation with only a carryon bag. In additon to the carry on, I am allowed my CPAP machine (medical device) and, a small bag (has to fit under the seat in front of you). It was quite a challenge, packing 2 weeks of cold weather gear into this small suitcase. Packing cubes helped quite a bit to get things organized and squished.
My meds and all the liquids went into the backpack. Each liquid, and gel container has to be under 100ml with a grand total of 1 quart. In addition to the suitcase and medical device, another bag is allowed. The backpack was stuffed with my purse, granola bars, a book, a water bottle, my coffee mug and all the liquids and meds.
Mark kindly offered to get us from Markham. We all had dinner together and then headed for the airport. Upon arrival, we were able to check in quite quickly. Getting through the security line took about an hour and was uneventful. It was 9 o'clock when we reached the boarding gate. It was time to hurry up and wait. The flight left a little late with a 12:15 take off time. The flight was 5 hours and blessedly smooth. A small amount of uncomfortable sleep was achieved.
TUESDAY, AUGUST 16. REYJAVIK
Our driver was waiting at the Keflavik airport to drive us 50 minutes to the hotel which is located quite downtown. Luggage was stored as the room was not yet ready.
After a bite to eat, a wake up walk brought us to Hallgrimskirkja. We took the elevator up to the top for amazing views of the city. Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran (Church of Iceland) parish church in Reykjavík, Iceland. At 74.5 metres (244 ft) tall, it is the largest church in Iceland.
Returning to the hotel, check in was accomplished. More walking down to the harbour to view a sculpture, the Harpa concert hall, and then on to our Culinary tour.
CULINARY TOUR
CULINARY TOUR
Here are the menus for food we ate on the tour:
Here is a list of all the places we visited and what we ate:
Forréttabarinn (Address: Nýlendugata 14, 101 Reykjavik)
* Herb Crusted Ribeye of Lamb
* Parsnip Purée
* Sauté Mushrooms
* Red Wine Reduction
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Address: Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavik)
* The World Famous Hot Dog (One with everything)
* Ketchup
* Sweet Mustard
* Fried Onion
* Raw Onion
* Remulade (Mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish.)
Íslenski Barinn (Address: Ingólfsstræti 1A, 101 Reykjavik)
* Fermented Shark
* Fish Jerky
* Traditional Icelandic Meat Soup
* Lamb Meat
* Rutabaga
* Carrots
* Potatoes
* Salt and Pepper
* Einstök White Ale
Forréttabarinn (Address: Nýlendugata 14, 101 Reykjavik)
* Herb Crusted Ribeye of Lamb
* Parsnip Purée
* Sauté Mushrooms
* Red Wine Reduction
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Address: Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavik)
* The World Famous Hot Dog (One with everything)
* Ketchup
* Sweet Mustard
* Fried Onion
* Raw Onion
* Remulade (Mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish.)
Íslenski Barinn (Address: Ingólfsstræti 1A, 101 Reykjavik)
* Fermented Shark
* Fish Jerky
* Traditional Icelandic Meat Soup
* Lamb Meat
* Rutabaga
* Carrots
* Potatoes
* Salt and Pepper
* Einstök White Ale
* Black Death (Brennivín)
Sjárvargrillið (Address: Skólavörðustígur 14, 101 Reykjavik)
* Langoustine Tacos
* Soft Taco
* Garlic Mayonnaise
* Spinach
* Pickled Red Onion
* Deep Fried Langoustine
* Date Purée
* Coriander
* Parmesan Cheese
* Lime
Hressingarskálinn/Hressó (Address: Austurstræti 20, 101 Reykjavik)
* The Famous Hressó Cake
* Coffee or Tea
Sjárvargrillið (Address: Skólavörðustígur 14, 101 Reykjavik)
* Langoustine Tacos
* Soft Taco
* Garlic Mayonnaise
* Spinach
* Pickled Red Onion
* Deep Fried Langoustine
* Date Purée
* Coriander
* Parmesan Cheese
* Lime
Hressingarskálinn/Hressó (Address: Austurstræti 20, 101 Reykjavik)
* The Famous Hressó Cake
* Coffee or Tea
Concluding the evening was a long walk back to the hotel where a plan for the next day was reviewed, and then we fell down into bed.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 17. THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
The Golden Circle shows the geological diversity of the island with some of the best known natural sites on the island.
This morning, the car rental company, Hertz picked us up at the hotel and drove us to their lot to give us a car; a VW Polo standard. A short while later, after acquiring an Iceland sim for the phone, we were off to Pingvellir National Park. This park is a UNESCO heritage site and celebrates this location for historical and geological reasons. This is where the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates can be seen. As you can tell from the pictures, it rained almost the whole day today and was quite cool.
The tour company recommended a stop for ice cream at the Efsti-dalur Farm. The ice cream was very tasty and, you could eat beside the cows and calves (they are behind a window). Also interesting, the cup and spoon are made of cardboard and therefore compostable.
Next, we continued to the Geysir geothermal area where the Strokkur geyser erupts every few minutes.
Second last for today was a visit to the two-tiered Gullfoss waterfall where white water tumbles over jagged lava rocks into a deep gorge. Absolutely beautiful!
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Last stop was the Kerid crater and lake.
Tonight's hotel in Selfoss is very nice. There is a lakeside restaurant that won our praise for dinner. Hoping for a better nights sleep tonight.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 18. THE SOUTH COAST AND WATERFALLS.
My rain jacket, pants and waterproof hiking boots have proven to be the best investment in clothing. It was yet another rainy and cool day.
The Lava Center Exhibition at Hvolsvollur was an informative but somewhat expensive stop. Participating in the interactive exhibits led me to learning some things about the earth and specifically, how lava gets into the various hotspots around the world through lava plumes that originate deep inside the earth. The feature film about Icelands volcanos was superbly presented.
Outdoor garb was donned for the Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, the only one of its kind in Iceland where you can walk behind the cascade on a footpath. It turned out to be a wet and wild, fun experience.
In the Town of Vik, we boarded a super Jeep for a half an hour drive to explore a crystal ice cave in the Myrdalsjokull glacier, where the famous Katla volcano lies. The Jeep took us near the glacier and then we had to walk. There was a series of ramps and steps to get into the cave. The glacier was magnificent and, the ice cave was really cool. Our headlamps let us see into the glacier and check out the layers and air bubbles. It was a great experience.
Nearby, the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara were intriguing.
Since it was raining and windy, the next stop almost got foregone. Very happy that we backtracked a bit as the view of Dyrholaey's spectacular rock arch, the black beaches and the basalt columns jutting out into the ocean were worth the drive.
This was the end of our sight seeing, arriving at our hotel at 6ish. Dinner was had at a nearby restaurant.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 19. SKAFTAFELL AND VATNOJOKULL GLACIER
We missed some places yesterday because we were too tired, too wet, and too hungry so, this morning we backtracked a bit.
Fjadrargljufur canyon has been hollowed out over millions of years by the Fjaora River. The walking path with views was quite extensive and, I only made it part way. Carl carried on without me.
At Dverghamrar, another small but impressive canyon showcased unusual, hexagonal basalt columns. The rock formations are thought to have been shaped toward the end of the last ice age, when the sea level was higher around Iceland and strong waves were battering the rock.
At Skaftafell, a part of Vatnajokull National Park, we hiked to Svartifoss waterfall. The guide book said that it was a small hike. The small hike was over 1.6 km each way and all up hill. This was a true test of my fitness and, I passed, although had to stop and catch my breath a several times. It was early afternoon by the time we moved on from here.
I did not know what to expect at the Fjallsarlon Ice Lagoon. The book indicated that we would see a small lagoon with icebergs. It was another shorter hike to the lagoon and we were gratified to see actual icebergs. They were beautiful!
The Jokulsarlong glacier lagoon, a little ways on was even more impressive. I was gobsmacked to see so many glacier bits in this lagoon and, no hiking!
SATURDAY, AUGUST 20. THE EAST FJORDS
After having breakfast at several hotels now, we have come to the following conclusions. The bacon is good but, the eggs, bacon and beans are always cold. The European breakfast is going to be the way to go from here on out. Cold cuts, cheese, crusty bread, tomatoes, and hard boiled eggs make a great way to start the day. Good coffee and tea has been available at each location.
Today's drive in East Iceland took us past fishing villages, spectacular fjords and sweeping landscapes.
In Djupivogur, a village once chosen as a fishing port by the Danes in the 16th century, is an art project called The Eggs of Merry Bay. You can see 34 oversize granite eggs sitting on posts. The eggs are representative of birds that nest in the area. Kind of quirky!
Somehow, Google Maps sent us to a dirt road and we were 4 km in, before I realized something wasn't right. In looking for a place to turn around, magically a parking lot with a beautiful waterfalls appeared. What are the chances?
Another stop was in Faskrudsfjodur, a small fishing village with french connections that was founded in 1880. The village was developed as a trading hub by the French, who built a chapel, hospital and French Consul here. They buildings have been rebuilt and draw in tourists to come and learn about the history of this spot. The museum was quite well done.
Outside Egilsstadir, you can find the lake Lagafljot, a long and narrow lake that, according to legend, is home to a sea serpent. On the way to the lake, we spotted some Icelandic horses and a rainbow.
When in Rome . . . go shop like a local. At Netto, we bought some chips, snacks and some kleenex for the car. I did sneak into the shopping cart, a bar of Icelandic chocolate to try.
Dinner was had in town about a 3 km drive from our hotel. Carl got to enjoy some local craft beer.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 21. SEYDISFJORDUR AND LAKE MYVATN
Today was a busy day, packed full of different sights to see.
The first drive was an optional detour to an enchanting small town called Seydisfjordur. The claim to fame is the well preserved wooden houses, steep mountains and picture-perfect fjord scenery.
During the next 2 hours drive, we made our way through the Modrudalsoraefi area
which looks like travelling on the moon.
This landscape morphed into the lush surroundings of the Lake Myvatn region known for its unique landscapes and volcanic activity. The Viti crater has a bright blue lake in its center. The still active volcano, Leirhnjukur was a steep hike up another hill for another colourful landscape. A short drive from here is Hverira, a geothermal area with a Martian like terrain, where the mountain side terrain is stained neon green, orange and white, thanks to the various gases escaping from the subterranean vents. 
And, last for today, we said yes to a hike around Dimmuborgir, an area with caves and rock formations that were created by lava flows hundreds of years ago.
Dinner was very tasty, local fish and chips.
Our hotel turned out to the poshest one yet. Very nice! We will be here two nights while we continue to explore this region.
MONDAY, AUGUST 22. JOKULSARGLJUFUR NATIONAL PARK
Headed north to the town of Husavik, a whale watching town. Completed a short walk around, checked out the church, spent over an hour at the whale museum, and then carried on.
A spectacular natural highlight is the Asbyrgi Canyon, a horseshoe shaped canyon that was formed in a massive glacier floor.
Carrying on along the circular route, we arrived at the beautiful Hljodaklettar rock formations. The otherworldly rock formations along the glacier river were found along a short hike.
I have to say that this trip, and the way we are doing it, is only doable if you are in decent shape. We have been hiking up and down hills, crawling up and down metal and stone steps and, in general, moving every day in rain, snow or sun.
The last stop for today was the thundering Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful in all of Europe. It stands an impressive 45 metres high and 100 metres across. Another hike to see the falls added up to a daily total of 9,760 steps today.
Today began with a hike of 1,800 steps to Godafoss, a wide and powerful waterfall. It's called Waterfall of the Gods a reason, it is among the most beautiful falls in the country. 
A further drive led to Akureyri, the unofficial capital of north Iceland. We visited the botanical gardens, the harbour, the church and two historical streets before moving on.
A further drive led to Akureyri, the unofficial capital of north Iceland. We visited the botanical gardens, the harbour, the church and two historical streets before moving on.
Offered a choice of drives, we chose to head to Siglifjordur at the end of the Penninsula of the Trolls. Along the way were views of mountains, cliffs and fjords that led us to this award winning museum called, The Era of Herring. The exhibitions are interactive and give a sense of what life was like in this town during the herring heyday. It was very well done.
Some views from the next drive are below:
In a short side trip to Hofsos, we found an amazing little restaurant where I dined on a farm fresh lamb burger and Carl had a chicken burger. Food was delicious.
Half an hour later we pulled into our accomodation for the night. Tonight we have a cabin that overlooks water and grassland.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24: JOURNEY TO THE WESTFJORDS
Hello everyone. Today was another bad hair day. It was so windy everywhere on top of the Vatnsnes Pennisula. I was sad that I couldn't get my hair cut before I left, because my hair dresser got Covid. Oh well, by the time I put on the hood of my down jacket and then, the hood of my rain jacket, it just doesn't matter anymore.
The mounds of Vatnsdalsholar are a series of, what appears to be piles of gravel, haphazardly located all over this area.
The Kolugljufur canyon and waterfall stunned us with their beauty.
Way on top of the mountain lies the Borgarvirki natural fortress that has been fortified over time by the people of the Huna district. It is believe that locals used it to stave off constant attacks of the armies of the Borgarfjordur chieftains. While it was used for ancient military purposes, Borgarvirki is a natural volcanic plug on this penninsula.
The Hvitserkur basalt rock stack off the shore of the penninsula is an impressive, 15 metre rock formation said to be a troll who found himself caught in the sunlight on his way to tear down the bells at a nearby convent.
In the guidebook, we were promised a seal colony but, in reality it was a very long hike, ending with seals on the far side of the shore. They were almost to far away to see. It was a little disappointing.
A very long, twisty, turny, sometimes foggy, mountainous gravel road took us to Holmavik where we had dinner, before the last half hour of the journey to our guesthouse.
It has been an interesting day exploring the Westfjords. There are a lot fewer tourists out here and, people are few and far between but sheep, are endless.
The guide book suggested a stop in Heydalur, a beautiful valley with lots of do but, when we arrived there (according to Google), it was not as promised. Still an ok drive out of our way but, we couldn't find the pretty or fun part.
A return to the main road brought us next to Litlibaer, a traditional Icelandic house. Currently, a cafe occupies the building and they sell waffles and coffee.
The Arctic Fox Center entertained us for a few hours as we learned about their habitat and lives.
Lastly, we had an early dinner in Isafjordur, after looking at some older houses and some older cars.
The room we got at the Holt Inn is the smallest one to date. Nice view, though!
Tomorrow night, we are back to a posh FossHotel. The trip is rapidly winding down but we still have lots to do. In addition to the usual sightseeing, on Saturday, we will be on a ferry and Sunday, a lava cave tour is booked.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 26: DYNJANDI WATERFALL & LATRABJARG CLIFFS
Fast Fact: In the remote parts of Iceland, you cannot find a WC (water closet or bathroom). In the other parts, sometimes there are free public facilities, and sometimes you have to pay a couple of dollars (like Europe).
Our first drive was to the Skudur Botanical Garden. It is a small garden, established in 1909 and to this day, locals still oversee its maintenance. In addition to the flowers, there was an interesting vegetable garden growing broccoli, cauliflower, beets, and other familiar veggies. An impressive site is the whale-jawbone that marks the garden entrance.
The Dynjandi waterfall was pretty and impressive. It looks perfect. A 3,600 step hike up to the top brought incredible views of the area. There are actually 7 waterfalls in total as you walk up, with Dynjandi being the one at the top, the largest and prettiest.
An abandoned ship surprised us on our drive to the cliffs. They call it a ghost ship.
The last event today was a crazy, hairy, long, gravel road that led to the Latrabjarg cliffs. This is the westernmost point in Europe and the home of millions of nesting birds. It is the biggest sea cliff in Iceland at 14km long and up to 441 metres high. We hiked to the top where it was super windy and did see many birds but, didn't do the long hike along the cliffs.
Tonights accomodation is at another FossHotel. A fish and chips dinner was had in their restaurant. It was a tasty, generous portion of Icelandic fish.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 27. RAUDISANDUR BEACH & FERRY CROSSING
Another single lane, gravel road brought us to Raudisandur or "Red Sand" beach. It is named for the unique golden-red colour of the sand beach.
Once in Stykkisholmur, we explored this charming port town and tracked down some of the historic houses. The oldest one is from 1832 made with materials imported from Norway by Arni Thorlacius. It is the solid black one in the photos. 
Outside Stykkisholmur, is the"Holy Mountain". Legend has it that you will be granted one wish,
if you walk up the mountain. The actual instructions are a little more complicated.
if you walk up the mountain. The actual instructions are a little more complicated.
The second mountain on our way to the hotel is Kirkjufell. It is 463 metres high and often photographed because of its shape.
Once at the hotel, getting dinner tonight proved to be quite a challenge. We didn't want anything from our hotel menu (some bad reviews for the food before us). The town next to us was having a wedding at one of the venues so, we ate at one of the last places available. On the menu, they had a ham and cheese sandwich with fries and we thought, it sounded a bit like home so, we ordered it. It turned out to be a mistake. They were cheap with the ham, and the cheese and, the ketchup. In addition, only one side of the sandwich was grilled. We of course ate it but, spoke about missing our food at home. Only 2 more sleeps until I get into my own kitchen and bed!
SUNDAY, AUGUST 28. SNAEFLELLSNES PENINSULA & WEST ICELAND
The lava cave tour we had booked was a 2 hour drive away so, after breakfast moved on.
Reykholt has a very medieval looking building in their tiny village.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls were as stunning as many others we have seen.
The lava cave tour was quite interesting. There was definately some learning happening as we listened to our tour guide explain about the creation of this lava tube around the year 900. We got to see lava shit (I kid you not) and, sparkly cave bacteria, in addition to piles and piles of basalt rock.
Returning to the ring road, the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes was worth a visit. One part of the museum explain Iceland early settlement and the other walked us through a saga of one particular settlers life.
Back in Reykjavik, we checked into the hotel for our last night in Iceland. Tomorrow, we tickets to the Blue Lagoon for 12:00. After that, the car will be returned and we will fly home.
Here is one last sheep shot, enjoy!
MONDAY, AUGUST 29: DEPARTURE FROM ICELAND & BLUE LAGOON
This morning we were able to slow down the pace we have been keeping. This meant a little more leisurely breakfast and getting ready to go. Repacking was done last night and preparations for our departure were finalized.
Since the Costco was on the way to the Blue Lagoon, we filled up at their gas station for $3.01/litre which is a bargain. Inside the Costco, comparisons were made to the prices that are paid here in Canada. They had sampling of their Iceland beef, which I tried. It took me quite a while, taking small bites to get it down. The famous Icelandic hot dog was temporarily unavailable. I had wanted to have that as an early lunch so I was disappointed. There was also a cheeseburger on the menu, for around $11. The rotisserie chicken was around $14 and the multipack cookies was also $15. We passed on all the food and moved on.
The walk into the Blue Lagoon was very windy but, once inside it was warm and the entry process was well laid out. Our reservation was confirmed, locker instructions were given and off we went. Everyone must shower prior to entering the water, since they cannot use chlorine there. There was some sulfur smell but you quickly get used to it. Since it was so cool outside it was heavenly getting into the water. The first order of business was to get our face mask which we slathered on generously. Moving to the opposite side of the lagoon, our drinks were obtained. I had a Somersby apple cider and Carl had a beer. The glasses must be held high so, that rogue waves or splashes don't get in the drink. The sauna and the steam sauna was also checked out but, I liked being in the water the best. All told, it was an amazing way to end of trip to Iceland. I was feeling pretty mellow until we got to the airport.
The rental car was returned quite efficiently and a ride was obtained to the airport front door. Inside, there was some confusion but, we found the line to get our boarding pass and it went quickly. Next stop was customs were everyone was very nice considering, that I forgot to put my tablet on the belt and my box had to be rescanned. A 20 minute walk ensued to find our boarding gate. There were people standing everywhere and confusion reigned. An announcement was made that those who didn't have a sticker on their passport must be examined. That was us! I guess they were checking for counterfeit passports since they scrutinized the picture, the paper and the holograms. Boarding began soon after that with a bus ride to the plane. We had seats in row 12 which was near the front so, I was very happy about that. The flight home was quite good with only a few small bumps.
Arriving in Toronto brought further chaos. Only 50 people are allowed off the plane every 8 minutes. Upon arriving at the new machines, lineups were everywhere. Once it was our turn we completed the process and, paper in hand headed for the next line. It was incredible how many people were in various lines, to more machines or the exit line.
It took about 45 minutes or so to clear the airport and Mark was waiting for us. Our thanks to him for driving us all the way home. Just before turning in, Carl asked me to check my email and announced, "You are not going to be happy". I was NOT happy when I discovered that I had been chosen for random mandatory covid testing and, it had to be done before end of day (Tuesday). This morning, more online forms were filled out and the link to Lifelabs didn't work. Upon calling them and waiting on hold for some time, it was revealed that their website was down. (What else?!) The lady was so nice and suggested that I just call my nearest SDM and see if they do these tests. SDM was able to do my test within 15 minutes of arrival. Now I have to wait for the results and move on from there.
Not exactly the ending to my trip that I would have liked. I will update you with my results.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31 AT HOME
No test results yet.
Driving summary: 3,400 kilometres, map showing route is below.
